We chose fabrics for this outfit based primarily on the customer's need for natural fiber clothing. He blows glass and synthetics melt when they get too close to the heat. For that reason, both the shirts and the breeches are 100% cotton. The weskit, which he removes when working, is a rayon blend.

The Weskit

After locating a coat and breeches pattern from a period tailor's book, I scaled the pattern up to my customer's measurements using the grid method .

Back in the day, I guess they figured patterns for interfacing and facings were unneccessary. I had to draft those myself. Facing patterns are easy. Just take your original pattern pieces and mark 2" in from the edge. Now connect the dots and you have a facing. Interfacing is a bit more complex. (Add a link to drawings and step by step here.)

Next comes cutting it all out. Using the tissue pattern, I cut the weskit body and facings from the face fabric. Then I used the fabric body pieces to cut an interlining from cotton broadcloth and a lining from acetate lining fabric. I used the tissue facing patterns to cut facings for back neck, front edges and armholes from face fabric.

Interlining goes on the inside of each body piece. You'll never see it, but it is essential to the structure of the weskit. I used diagonal basting to secure the backing. You can see some of the stitches in the pocket detail shot on the left. That basting goes all over each piece so the layers don't slip.