This project is a Halloween costume. The customer provided the materials and a pattern, but the pattern view she selected was designed to be cut on the bias. (That's a 45-degree angle for those who don't sew). Bias dresses have more swing to them because the fabric gives and stretches more on the bias than on the straight grain. To get the true "Stephanie" look the dress NEEDS that swing at the bottom.

Altering the pattern:

...press the wrinkles out of the tissue My customer had already purchased the pattern and cut out the pieces for the view she wanted, so we couldn't return the pattern. My first step was to select the straight-grain version of the dress, cut out the pieces with a margin for alteration and press the wrinkles out of the tissue. This is an important step. Every one of those wrinkles changes the size of the cut piece by a smidge. The smidges can add up to enough to make the garment fit badly.

I made the skirt modification, angling the pattern out from the waist enough to increase the width at the hem by 6 inches. I also altered the pattern for size. You cannot buy a pattern based on your ready-to-wear size! The company makes a pattern size which would have fit almost without alteration, but my customer didn't buy that one. The correct pattern was a girl's plus size and vanity probably entered into the decision. You cannot buy a pattern based on your ready-to-wear size! You must use real measurements. Keep telling yourself it's only a number; and without the right numbers, the clothes don't fit.

Altering a tissue pattern isn't terribly complicated when it's only a matter of simple length and width issues. I took the difference between my customer's measurements and the pattern company's standard measurements and divided it by 4. I added that amount to each side seam and adjusted the cutting lines. Also, the bias view had a V-neck. The straight grain view that I modified had a square neck. I carefully severed the V-neck portion of the pattern and taped it over the square neck. Viola! The pattern is ready to roll.

Getting ready for fitting:

I pre-washed the fabric, pressed it and the pattern pieces (they got wrinkled during alteration) and lined up the grain. I placed the pieces carefully, positioning the pattern so the stripes would match up at the seams. I also checked to make sure the center stripe was in the same position as the reference picture. Careful cutting is always essential, but it is VITAL when matching patterned fabric. Once the pieces were cut out, I transferred the markings. I prefer tailor tacks. They are precise, easy to remove and don't make dents in the fabric.

For the best results, you can't skip steps. I stay-stitched the armholes, shoulders and neck as soon as I removed the pattern tissue. Then I sewed the Viola! center back seam and put in the zipper. I pinned the darts according to the pattern markings and then pinned the shoulder and side seams. Since this was for fitting purposes, I used a lot of pins right on the proposed seam lines and pointed them downwards. Viola! One pink striped dress temporarily assembled and ready to fit.